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General description: A winding, 50-mile paved highway through spectacular canyon and mountain country along the Rio Grande.
Special attractions: Big Bend Ranch State Park, Colorado Canyon, Fort Leaton State Historic Site, hiking, river trips, views, camping.
Location: West Texas. The drive starts in Lajitas, a small town on the Rio Grande about 95 miles south of Alpine.
Drive route number: FM 170.
Travel season: Oct through Mar. The drive can be extremely hot in summer; temperatures can exceed 110 degrees.
Camping: Big Bend Ranch State Park maintains primitive campsites along the Rio Grande.
Services: All services are available in Lajitas and Presidio.
Nearby attractions: Big Bend National Park, ghost towns of Shafter and Terlingua.
For more information: Big Bend Ranch State Park, P.O. Box 2319, Presidio, TX 79845; (432) 358-4444; www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/big_bend_ranch. Fort Leaton State Historic Site, P.O. Box 2319, Presidio, TX 79845; (432) 229-3613; www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/fort_leaton.
The Drive
The highway between Lajitas and Presidio may well be the most scenic drive in Texas. The road follows the Rio Grande through Colorado Canyon, a rugged defile cut through the lava flows of the Bofecillos and Sierra Rica volcanoes. The road twists and winds and has very steep grades of 15 percent in places; drivers of large RVs or vehicles with trailers should make sure that their brakes and engines are in excellent operating condition.
The drive starts in Lajitas, a small village on the Rio Grande. Because the town lies on a stretch of the river not hemmed in by deep canyons, it has long been a river crossing, used by everyone from early Indians to modern tourists. The western leg of the great Comanche War Trail crossed the river at Lajitas. For more than 100 years, Comanches raided deep into Mexico from their homes on the southern Great Plains. Every fall the appearance of the Comanche moon struck fear in the hearts of Mexicans and Indians as far south as Durango. The Comanches swept south, raiding Mexican ranches and villages and taking livestock, captives, weapons, and other loot back with them. The Comanche raids were finally stopped by American troops in Oklahoma and the High Plains of Texas. For many years afterward a bare scar across the desert littered with bones marked the War Trail.
The Lajitas Trading Post has operated for many years out of an old adobe building above the river. The trading post is probably most famous for its beer-drinking goat, Clay Henry. The original goat has since departed for that great grazing ground in the sky, but its descendants carry on the tradition.
In recent years developers have built a resort community at Lajitas. Although the development is still relatively small, its homes, hotels, shops, golf course, and air strip overwhelm the original settlement.
The town is a popular starting point for river trips through Santa Elena and Colorado Canyons. Outfitters are located here and in nearby Terlingua and Study Butte. If time and water levels permit, consider taking a float trip down one of the Big Bend canyons. It’s the only easy way to see some of the most spectacular country in Texas. Unfortunately, with frequent droughts and Mexico periodically withholding much of the Rio Grande’s water in violation of treaty obligations, the river is only sporadically high enough to float.
Yellowstone East - The Beartooth Highway
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General description: A 65-mile drive that climbs through national forest to a 10,947-foot plateau overlooking mountain ranges of two states. The famous Beartooth Highway, a National Scenic Byway, crosses the highest elevations in both Montana and Wyoming accessible by automobile. Panoramic vistas of alpine meadows, glacial lakes, and mountains.
Driving time: Two and a half to three hours. You could possibly drive this route in two hours, if you avoid the temptation to stop at overlooks or to take pictures. However, it will probably take closer to three hours. People in a hurry should not take this route.
Special attractions: In Red Lodge in August, the Festival of Nations; the Beartooth Highway through Rock Creek Canyon, the Beartooth Plateau, and Clarks Fork Valley; Granite Peak, Montana’s highest mountain; tundra and endless wildflowers; the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.
Location: South-central Montana and northwest Wyoming.
Drive route name/number: Beartooth Highway/U.S. Highway 212.
Travel season: Summer. Beartooth Pass is usually open from Memorial Day weekend through September, but it may open late or close early because of snow accumulation.
Camping: A number of campgrounds line the route: Ratine, Sheridan, Parkside, Limber Pine, Greenough Lake, M-K, Chief Joseph Campground, Fox, Colter, and Soda Butte. More are located farther back on Forest Service roads, for those willing to drive a few miles on dirt.
Services: Full services in Red Lodge, Cooke City, and Silver Gate. Top of the World has a small store for gas, groceries, and camping supplies.
Nearby points of interest: Meeteetse Wildlife Trail, Grasshopper Glacier and pink snow, the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, downhill skiing in winter at Red Lodge Mountain ski area, Silver Run Cross-Country Ski Area.
For more information: Red Lodge Chamber of Commerce; Clarks Fork Ranger District; Custer National Forest; Beartooth Ranger District; Shoshone National Forest District; Gallatin National Forest District.
The Drive
The high-country drive from Red Lodge, Montana, to Cooke City on the border of Yellowstone takes you across a beautiful mountain plateau. The Beartooth Highway, built in the 1930s and restored in 2005, is an engineering feat that still astonishes today.
Begin the drive in Red Lodge, named for the Crow Indians’ custom of decorating tepees with red clay from the nearby mountains. The history here is typical of the Old West; Indians, raucous settlers, miners, ranchers, and entrepreneurs all left their marks. Red Lodge became the county seat of Carbon County after coal-mining ventures drew settlers from all over the world. The Festival of Nations, a major celebration lasting nine days every August, commemorates the town’s diverse ethnic heritage. Free food samples and music of many nations are offered on the streets of town during the festivity.
Begin monitoring your odometer at the turnoff to Red Lodge Mountain Ski Resort on the south end of town. The mile markers at the side of the road mark the distance to Yellowstone’s border. In the first 15 miles of this breathtaking drive, you will climb almost 4,000 feet in elevation. Several rock slides to the east mark the narrow entrance to Rock Creek Canyon, whose walls of Precambrian granite are some of the oldest rocks on earth, dating back about a quarter of a billion years. As a result, the canyon attracts paleontologists and geologists, as well as archaeologists. As you climb, you pass through yellow and red rock outcroppings, palisades of white limestone, and pine-covered hills also nurturing sagebrush, aspen, cottonwood, and Douglas fir.
Several campgrounds appear in short order, and the Custer National Forest is rich in sporting opportunities. In and near Red Lodge are resorts and lodges for those who would rather not “rough it.” There is no other lodging along the route to Cooke City.
Colorado River Scenic Byway
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General Description: From Moab to I-70, this 44-mile drive runs through a redrock canyon carved by the Colorado River, then across the desert to the major east–west travel corridor of central Utah, possibly combined with a 60-mile jaunt into the mountains.
Special Attractions: Colorado River, Professor Valley, Fisher Towers, views of the La Sal Mountains.
Location: Southeastern Utah.
Drive Route Number & Name: Highway 128, Colorado River Scenic Byway.
Travel Season: Year-round.
Camping: Five BLM campgrounds and two BLM semi-developed camp clusters along the Scenic Byway; undeveloped Forest Service campgrounds along the La Sal Loop; commercial and public campgrounds in and around Moab.
Services: All services in Moab; no services along the route.
Nearby Attractions: Negro Bill Canyon hikes, La Sal Mountain Scenic Backway, Sego Canyon Rock Art Site.
The Drive
What distinguishes this drive from other canyon drives in southern Utah is that while this drive does follow a narrow canyon with steep sandstone walls, it also follows the Colorado River—a fairly substantial body of water. This is one of the very few places in the state where you can actually drive beside one of the major rivers that cut the dramatic gorges for which this part of the country is famous. In fact, Highway 128 is the only road that runs along a significant stretch of either the Colorado or the Green River. This is a favorite area for both bicyclists and river floaters, and you are likely to see both on this drive. The rafters are fun to watch; the cyclists require your attention.
This is a relatively short drive; at 44 miles it makes a nice afternoon excursion from Moab. Though it’s short, note that you will not find services along this drive until Crescent Junction or Grand Junction (depending on your direction) if you are not returning via this route to Moab. So be sure to gas up in Moab and bring as much food and drink as you will need for the drive and maybe a short hike. (Moab, the tourist center of Utah’s eastern canyon country, was briefly described at the start of Drive 12.)
This drive makes an attractive connecting route from the canyon country of southeastern Utah to I-70 and points beyond. To avoid simply going out and back on this drive, you might loop back to the west on the interstate and then return to Moab, 31 miles south of the Crescent Junction exit via US 191. A more attractive option, which incorporates very different territory than you’ll see along the river, is to combine this drive with the beautiful La Sal Mountain Loop by tackling the mountain loop either first or on your return to Moab.
Leave Moab on US 191 north, as if headed to Arches. Just before the Colorado River (a mile or so out of Moab) is the turnoff on the right for Highway 128, which soon follows the Colorado River. A little more than 3 miles from the start of Highway 128, you will reach the pull-out on the right for Negro Bill Canyon. The pull-out is not well marked, but you will see a dirt parking area. Named for the early settler William Granstaff, who kept cattle in the canyon, this is one of the most popular short trails in the Moab area. This moderate trail is just under 2 miles each way and ends at Morning Glory Natural Bridge. At 243 feet, this is the sixth-longest natural bridge in the nation.
West Yellowstone, Montana, to Jackson, Wyoming
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General description: A three-state drive past two popular lake recreation areas that takes you across the Continental Divide, through high forest, then descends to a broad farming valley along the back side of the beautiful Teton Range on the Teton Scenic Byway. The first 40 miles of this route has several interesting and scenic side drives or alternate routes. Whether starting from West Yellowstone or U.S. Highway 87, Montana, the drive is about 125 miles.
Driving time: Two to two and a half hours, depending on traffic.
Special attractions: Henry’s Lake State Park, Island Park Recreation Area, Caribou-Targhee National Forest, Harriman State Park and Wildlife Refuge, Teton Range and Teton Pass. Boating, fishing, hiking, and other outdoor sports opportunities abound along the entire route.
Location: South-central Montana, southeastern Idaho, and northwestern Wyoming.
Drive route name/number: Begin either in West Yellowstone on U.S. Highway 20, or in southern Montana on Montana Highway 87, which connects to US 20 (if you are traveling from Ennis to Jackson, rather than from Ennis to Yellowstone)—to Idaho Highway 32, ID 33, and Wyoming Highway 22.
Travel season: Year-round. However, late fall through early spring the snow could be flying. Be sure to check on road conditions. For highway road conditions see Appendix A.
Camping: There is ample camping available in West Yellowstone at the many private campgrounds and RV parks. Henry’s Lake, Island Park, Snowy River, Harriman State Park West End Campground, Box Canyon, Big Springs. Campgrounds are scattered all along Henry’s Fork River; Driggs, Victor, Pine Creek (Forest Service), Mike Harris Campground (FS), Moose Creek, Trail Creek (FS), and around the Jackson area.
Services: Full services in West Yellowstone, Montana; Ashton, Tetonia, Driggs, and Victor, Idaho; Wilson and Jackson, Wyoming. Partial services at Mack’s Inn, and Island Park, Idaho.
Nearby points of interest: Hebgen Lake, Yellowstone National Park, Caldera Park Lookout, Mesa Falls Scenic Byway and Falls, Grand Targhee Resort, and Jedediah Smith Wilderness.
For more information: West Yellowstone, Jackson, Teton Valley Chamber of Commerce; Harriman State Park, Island Park Ranger District; Caribou-Targhee National Forest; and Grand Targhee Resort.
The Drive
You can either begin this three-state drive in West Yellowstone and follow US 20 west and south, or, if you are coming from Ennis, Montana, take the cutoff before you reach West Yellowstone, from US 287 to MT 87, an 8-mile connection to US 20. If traveling directly to Jackson from Ennis, the cutoff on MT 87 provides an 18-mile stretch of good road and saves about 30 miles of backtracking from West Yellowstone. Regardless of the starting point, the drive to Jackson, Wyoming, passes from Montana through southeastern Idaho across the southern end of the awe-inspiring Teton Range, and down into the lush valley known as Jackson Hole.
If your starting point is West Yellowstone, follow the signs to pick up US 20 two blocks north of the exit from the park. The route goes about 10 miles through thickly forested Targhee Pass and crosses the Continental Divide before meeting up with MT 87. Continue south on US 20 and through Idaho for the bulk of the drive.
From Ennis, head south on US 287 and before you reach Quake Lake watch for the historical marker on the right that points out Raynolds Pass. If you want to take a side trip to Quake Lake, the area and route are described in Drive #3, “Three Forks, Montana, to the West Entrance.” Just beyond the Raynolds Pass historical marker, turn right (south) onto MT 87 toward the pass and cross the Madison River as it dashes from its headwaters in Yellowstone. Within a half mile, Raynolds Pass fishing access hints of the sporting territory through which this road passes. Scenic mountains to the left and the marshy Missouri Flats to the right should alert wildlife watchers to the possibility of moose sightings. Travel 9 miles to the Continental Divide at the Idaho border, and another 9 miles to the junction with US 20.
Carlsbad Caverns Highway & Walnut Canyon Desert Drive
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General description: A 7-mile paved highway through the foothills of the Guadalupe Mountains to Carlsbad Cavern and a 9-mile gravel loop through the park backcountry.
Special attractions: Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Chihuahuan Desert, hiking, views.
Location: Southeastern New Mexico. The drive starts in Whites City, a small tourist town about 20 miles southwest of Carlsbad.
Drive route name/number: NM 7, Walnut Canyon Desert Drive.
Travel season: Year-round. The drive can be hot in summer. The rest of the year, especially fall, is usually more pleasant. Although it can be hot, the park is green and most attractive in late summer after the rains have arrived. Carlsbad Cavern itself remains a cool 56 degrees year-round.
Camping: only primitive backcountry camping is allowed in the park. The nearest public campgrounds are in Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Brantley Dam State Park.
Services: All services are available in Carlsbad and Whites City. Food is available at Carlsbad Caverns National Park.
Nearby attractions: Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Lincoln National Forest, Sitting Bull Falls, Slaughter Canyon Cave (New Cave), Living Desert Zoo and Gardens State Park, Brantley Lake State Park.
For more information: Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Carlsbad Chamber of Commerce. See Appendix for addresses, phone numbers, and websites.
The Drive
Carlsbad Cavern is world famous as one of the largest caves in the world. one chamber, the Big Room, has 8.2 acres of floor space and a 255-foot-high ceiling. Immense stalactites and stalagmites grow from the ceiling and floor of the Big Room and many of the cavern’s other chambers, dwarfing park visitors.
The drive starts in Whites City, a small town founded to provide services to Carlsbad Caverns National Park visitors. The town lies at the edge of the long ridge that makes up the Guadalupe Mountains. The mountains are a large, uplifted block that tilts upward to the south in a wedge shape. Although most of the mountain range lies in New Mexico, the highest part of the triangular wedge lies in Texas. The Texas section of the mountains and some of the adjoining New Mexico mountains are high enough to be partly forested. Guadalupe Mountains National Park contains most of the Texas section, preserving a rugged landscape of towering cliffs, deep canyons, hidden oases, and that state’s highest peak. Most of the mountains in New Mexico lie within Carlsbad Caverns National Park and the Lincoln National Forest.
The highway to Carlsbad Cavern enters the mountains abruptly at the edge of Whites City. For most of the 7-mile paved drive, the highway follows Walnut Canyon upstream. Except during floods, the canyon is dry, its floor dominated by white limestone cobbles and boulders. Small, scattered walnut trees give the canyon its name. Cliffs of weathered limestone make up the canyon walls and desert plants carpet the slopes.
Sedona–Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Road
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General description: A 27-mile-long paved highway that drops from Flagstaff through spectacular Oak Creek Canyon to the red rock country at Sedona in central Arizona.
Special attractions: Scenic views, camping, hiking, fishing, swimming, nature study, rock climbing, Coconino National Forest, Oak Creek Canyon Recreation Area, Oak Creek Canyon Natural Area, Slide Rock State Park, Oak Creek Vista, Red Rock–Secret Mountain Wilderness Area, West Fork of Oak Creek Canyon.
Location: Central Arizona. Sedona, the southern terminus of Oak Creek Canyon, is 120 miles north of Phoenix and 15 miles north of Interstate 17 via Arizona Highway 179. Use exit 298 on I–17. U.S. 89A begins off Interstate 40 in Flagstaff, or 2 miles south of Flagstaff at exit 337 on I–17.
Drive route numbers and name: U.S. Highway 89A.
Travel season: Year-round.
Camping: Four National Forest campgrounds—Pine Flat, Cave Spring, Bootlegger, and Manzanita—are spread along the canyon road with a total of 166 sites. All campgrounds have restrooms and tables. All but Bootlegger have water. Pine Flat and Cave Spring campgrounds are the only ones with trailer spaces. There are private RV parks and campgrounds in Sedona and Flagstaff.
Services: All services are available in Flagstaff and Sedona.
Nearby attractions: Flagstaff, Museum of Northern Arizona, Sunset Crater Volcano and Wupatki National Monuments, Walnut Canyon National Monument, Mogollon Rim, Tuzigoot National Monument, Montezuma Castle National Monument, Fort Verde State Historic Park, Jerome, Munds Mountain Wilderness Area, Sycamore Canyon Wilderness Area, West Clear Creek Wilderness Area, Wet Beaver Wilderness Area, Schnebly Hill Road, Devil’s Bridge.
The Drive
The 27-mile-long Sedona–Oak Creek Canyon scenic road drops abruptly from the ponderosa pine woodlands near Flagstaff into slender Oak Creek Canyon before ending in the red rock country of Sedona. This spectacular drive, one of Arizona’s very best, offers both sweeping views from its upper elevations of the Mogollon Rim and San Francisco Peaks, and intimate glimpses within the canyon of leafy grottos, tumbling Oak Creek, soaring sandstone cliffs, and colorful autumn colors.
The Sedona–Oak Creek Canyon drive, a designated Arizona scenic route since 1984, spans more than 2,000 feet of elevation between Flagstaff and Sedona. Such a dramatic elevation difference in such a short distance creates a jumbled mosaic of climates and an astonishing number of biological communities. The dense forests atop the rim and in the canyon’s upper reaches are cool and moist. The scrubby woodland near Sedona is dry and dusty. Cacti, yucca, and chaparral grow on warm, south-facing slopes, whereas a hundred yards around the bend in shaded alcoves live Douglas fir and ferns. Oak Creek Canyon forms a transition zone between the Colorado Plateau to the north and the Sonoran Desert to the south, with plants from both areas mingling together.
The canyon’s elevation variations make markedly different climates along the drive. The upper elevations are cool, with temperatures generally in the seventies or low eighties in summer. Summer temperatures in the canyon are pleasant, with highs only rarely climbing above one hundred degrees. The frigid, spring-fed creek is always close by to offer relief on the hot days. Autumn brings cool, clear days and colorful foliage in late October. Winters are cold and snowy